Ready for a fun day in the shop building a new HF antenna?

Note: You can buy these complete and ready to put up at our store!  You don't have to build it if you'd rather not.

We strongly suggest that, if you plan to build your own, that you use our boards.  They are 75 cents each but worth every penny when it comes down to building something that will last....and save you some serious time.

There have been dozens of suggested ways to build this type of antenna.  The problem is, you're creating a

 basic dipole but every meter or so you have to have a way to install a capacitor in series with the wire.  In each antenna there are usually over 24-48 of these so finding a quick and lasting method of doing this is easily the most challenging part of making this antenna.

I've found, because capacitors only come in certain standard values, it is better to select the standard valued capacitor and calculate the antenna design from that.  Try various sizes based on the standards and try different frequencies and get a feel for what it takes.  Any number of caps between 24 and 48 are just fine.  More than 48 doesn't make any difference in the characteristics of the antenna.

The calculator below will tell you exactly how to build a CCD based on the cap size you want to use and what frequency you want it to resonate on.  Note that it must be an even number of caps in the results...can't build a dipole style antenna with an odd number.  However, if you are wanting to build a long wire version an odd number is fine.

Calculate your CCD...

Cap value in pf
Frequency in Mhz

The boards

We have designed a small 1" x 1/2" board pre-etched and drilled.  These boards are almost indestructible.  The boards are designed to work with 14 gauge slinky stranded wire...perfect for those of us who tangle our wire easily.  You'll need to order up some good quality caps.  Silver Mica is best for RF work. 

Here you can see one of our boards before we cut them to size as well as a couple finished boards.  The boards are designed to allow for mounting under eves or suspended at multiple points along the antenna if needed.  The larger hole is perfect for that.  The hole can also be used to make sure the antenna is built to spec by allowing the builder to create a 'jig' of sorts.  A simple board with two slots that the hole part will fit into is all that's needed.  Space the slots exactly the length stated for the sections and band band you are working on.

Here is a closer view of the front, back, and one with the wire connected to it.  We found that putting in the wire leaving only a very small amount showing on the solder side and bending the wire before soldering works best.  As you can see you should pre-install the caps before connecting the wire.

Here is a single side of a 40 meter antenna leg completed. 

Building the antenna with the boards will take an average of 3 hours.

Here's how I build these antennas.

First, the boards themselves have gone through a couple versions.  The current one is shown below.  I added an extra set of holes for the two standard sizes of caps.  I also widened the pads to give more strength.

Above you can see a board with slots cut into it.  I used a Dummel tool with a narrow rounter bit installed.  These are the end slots on the left of the jig.  Since I make various versions I have each slot measured out from the single assembly slot on the right end of the jig.

This is the right end of the jig.  All connections are made here.  You can see how the boards fit into the slots.  I line up the wire so that, where I cut it, it would have enough room to go into the holes. 

I then pull them into the holes and bend them as they will be in the finished antenna.  It's important to use 14 gauge stranded wire with these boards.  The wire fits exactly right through the holes and even without soldering the edge of the boards cut into the wire and make a solid physical connection.  Of course, soldering is needed.

I hold the board down with the dykes as I solder the two wires.  I make sure the holes are completely filled all the way around reducing the possibility of corrosion from weather.  I use a 140 watt gun and get the board and wire more than hot enough to let the solder flow smoothly around everything.

I also leave 10-15 seconds for everything to cool enough to not cause a cold solder joint.  The connection is inspected under a magnifier lamp and re-done if not 100% perfect.

Here's another look at the left side of the jig.  As each board is completed it's placed in the slot on the left side and held in place. (I use this hammer)  I can then pull tight between it and the right end and make my next cut exactly the right length.  This gives me perfect lengths every time.

As the antenna takes shape I use two nails to wrap it on.  Even though the wire is kink free a CCD with boards can get VERY tangled up.  Have some zip ties around to keep things tied up well until you are ready to take it out and put it up.

When putting it up be sure to hold each side of the antenna in one hand and let out each wire/cap section at a time.  If you loose control of the unspooling you'll spend a LOT of time getting it untangled.

There you have it.  Between the boards and the method above, we come out with perfect CCD wire lengths.